Writings and Words
Increments of Fear is the story of the human endeavor for perfection, and the failures intertwined in the journey. Poignant, brutally honest, and provocative, it sheds insight into one of surfing's most intriguing and charismatic characters, Buzzy Trent.
Big wave surfing isn't measured in feet,
but in increments of fear. — Buzzy Trent
Image:Ken Koski
Our perspective of the mountain is outlined from the vantage point of where we sit. We were his children and therefore should have had the deepest insight of him as a person, yet, there are times when I feel that even my perceptions of him are misguided by a desire to create him into being the father I wished him to be. Nevertheless, a person should never be judged by the parts because it is the whole that truly define us. After all, if one were to focus on the miniscule imperfection in a diamond, you would miss the brilliance of its entirety.
- Anna Trent Moore
Words to Share
"WHAT BINDS US"
by Anna Trent Moore
Click here to read the full article (PDF)
"ONE OCEAN"
by Anna Trent Moore
Ivan Trent
The sadness in Japan... a horrible reality.
Three fourth of the Earth's surface is Ocean. Earth is in many
respects young and growing. Nature's poweress rules
supreme and mere mortals do not.
Say a prayer, light some incense, go surf.
That inverted bowl we call The Sky,
Where under crawling coop't we live and die,
Lift not thy hands to it for help — for It
Rolls impotently on as Thou or I.
— Omar Khayyám
- Ivant Trent Sends
Molokai'i Paddle next July!
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Team Barracuda Nui Loa Update
As we round October, we are reminded that as the year progresses, summer will come when it will come. So as we gear up for Kaiwi Channel arena in Molokai'i 2012, each stroke forges our determination to go hard and go well. The east coast winter will be a challenge for ocean paddle training, but will only strengthen our resolve to be prepared for the challenge. From the Barracuda Bud Browne, our father Buzzy Trent, and all the others that have gone before and with them, we will be ready to go with grace and will.
The Barracuda
Bud Browne
(1912-2008)
There are times that I miss him so much. But then, when one leaves such an amazing body of work behind, you are always filled with their presence. He taught me how to be a better person, to believe in possibilities, and know with complete certainty that if you work hard, be brave, and steadfast, you can accomplish anything. Bud Browne was a man that stayed the course always. And somehow, I think it's still that way for him. He's on another journey for sure, but…he's left a bit of himself behind to remind us all to carry on.
Nick Gabaldon (1927-1951)
His life was gentle, and the elements so mixed in him that Nature herself might stand up and say to the world, "This was a Man!"
Shakespeare, Julius Ceasar
Nick Gabaldon is recognized as California's first African American surfer. He died surfing Santa Monica Beach during a large swell. Trying to shoot through the Santa Monica Pier, he disappeared and drowned. A light extinguished, but to some, never forgotten.
It is befitting that we include Nick Gabaldon in our hearts during our Molokai'i Quest. After all, he was the great paddler of life. He paddled twelve miles from Santa Monica to Malibu where he surfed all day before journeying the twelve miles back. I wonder now what that twelve mile journey was like for him? What were his train of thoughts? Without a doubt, he was of extraordinary mind and character, and through my father's stories I have often wondered about this man. I still do, because so little is known about him.
I grew up hearing the story of Nick Gabaldon from my father Buzzy Trent. In fact, he passed Nick's story down to others throughout his lifetime. One of them was Gerry Lopez who wrote about it in his book Surf Is Where You Find It. From the stories of Nick that have been passed on, this can be said of him; He died as he lived, with courage and love for life. I for one am grateful that this story has come to light in the film Twelve Miles North for all to see and hear. Because in truth, it is not just a surf story. It is the stuff that binds us and hopefully mends our humanity. Bud Browne Film Archives is proud to have contributed film for the film project Twelve Miles North. In fact, it is the proudest we have ever been. Long live Nick.
Aloha Nui Loa,
Anna Trent Moore