Writings and Words
What a Spring!
It was a great Spring for Bud Browne Film Archives! First off, in January we had another wonderful showing at the Waimea Ocean Film Festival! Always a stellar event and we were stoked to present Bud Browne’s Gun Ho! Loved seeing the wonderful selection of films that have not only to do with surfing, but all things ocean, reminding us that we are all part of a greater thing. Mahalo nui Tania Howard! Then, in April it was off to the Surfing Heritage and Culture Center to share an evening of stories and film. First off, a lecture and book sign with our friend John Engle’s new book, Surfing in the Movies and my book, Laughing at Water. If you haven’t checked out Engle’s book yet, please do! A precise, critical analysis of the surf film, it is not only well written, but such a good read that I couldn’t put it down! Then, on May 19th we were off to San Diego to the San Diego Surf Film Festival to accept a Life Achievement Award of behalf of our very own Bud Browne! Such and honor and we thank you SDSFF Directors Pierce and Petra Kavanagh! So what’s next? (‘cuz the year is not yet over!) We are excited to be a part of the Honolulu Surf Film Festival once again this year. It will mark the seventh year that we have been a part of this fine event. First off, I am stoked to give a talk on July 28th on Bud Browne’s Surfers that he captured on film from the 1950’s-1970’s. Accompanying my lecture will be a new film we produced called, Bud Browne’s Surfers. Then, on July 31st we close the festival with a most special night! Tribute to Peter Cole! This evening is dedicated to our dear friend and Patriarch on behalf of North Shore Big Wave Surfing, Peter Cole. On board to sing his praises for the evening will be, Jock Sutherland, Randy Rarick, Mark Cunningham, Don Rohrer, Kohl Christensen, Ken Bradshaw, and Kimo Hollinger. And then, last but not least…I finished my most recent book! The first edition of Going Surfin’ Profiles of Bud Browne’s Surfers 1950’s-1970’s. It available now at www.budbrownefilmarchives.com and www.amazon.com
Whew! Well, that’s all for now folks! Here’s to a great summer of south swells everyone!
Anna Trent Moore ☺
Keith Boyd-Interviews SDSFF 2016
Outside of your deep personal connection and more as the primary caretaker and curator of the Bud Browne Archives what do you feel is his legacy?
"Of course the surfing world recognizes Bud Browne’s legacy to be one as the man who created the surf film genre. But to expand upon that, I quote from Midget Farrelly: “ Bud captured the ethos of his time. He did not rewrite or refashion. His images were so powerful.” You know, when asked to describe himself, Bud responded with, “A man of few words.” But, although I would have to agree with his self assessment, I still find it ironic that for someone who spoke so little, the work he left behind in films and images speaks such volumes! He was a very reticent and deeply modest individual who often dismissed the many “firsts” attributed to him; first to film the first day Waimea was surfed, first to bring Makaha Point to the surf screen, first to film Honolua Bay, first to film (and name) Laniakea the first day it was known to be surfed, first to capture Outter Reef at Pipeline, and of course, he was the first commercial surf filmmaker. When I would proudly remind him of these things toward the end of his life, he characteristically dismissed it all with a wave of his hand. Still, what I believe to be Bud enduring legacy is that he alone captured and documented the most in depth, chronological history of surfing from the birth of modern Big Wave Riding, through the short board revolution. No one documented more epochs in the sport of surfing than Bud Browne.
Having grown up the daughter of Buzzy Trent and been surrounded by a veritable who’s who of the surfing world can you give us some insight into what drove these folks to do what they did? Obviously there is the courage and athleticism involved but making a somewhat broader analysis, what cultural forces were in play at the time that might have influenced these pioneers?
"In my father’s time, they were certainly a band of brothers. The early Californian Big Wave Surfers (most of which came from Santa Monica), arrived in the islands at different times, but they were always following each other’s dreams; my father, who was one of the first, arrived in 1952. I have known many Big Wave surfers throughout my life, and while no two were alike, and each had their unique characters, they all possessed one common denominator…they BELONGED in Big Water. They not only felt driven to surf the biggest wave that they could, but they thrived on it. They didn’t just wait for it to happen. They lived for it to happen. It was their number one preoccupation. Being married to some of these men had to be difficult I’m sure, because as I recall, many marriages didn’t last. Not the first ones anyway. But some passions that you go at alone come at price, don’t they? Still, interestingly, many of the Big Wave Surfers I have known from my father’s day were very humble and deeply introspective men. I think there’s definitely a certain prototype personality in a Big Wave Surfer that is blueprinted in men who pursue other big physical challenges, like the people that climb Everest, fly fighter jet planes, or pursue bull fighting in the ring. Had Buzzy Trent not been a Big Wave Surfer, he would have been a bullfighter. His drive, timing, and circumstance just found it’s way into Big Wave Surfing.”
There have been a few famous big wave surfers who just as famously walked away from this high-stakes pursuit. Along with your Dad I’m specifically thinking of Greg Noll. What factors would you say influenced these reversals? Also, from your personal perspective what sorts of echoes did that very intense lifestyle create in your family’s life? Was it a difficult transition from that to a different way of living?
"First of all, I can’t speak for Greg Noll, but I can for my father Buzzy Trent. My father gave up surfing in one day. Literally. As a teenager at the time, I wasn’t moved by this at all. But today, I find it quite extraordinary. He was still in his zenith, in top physical shape. Still strong. He left it all behind. But he was like that. When he made a decision, he committed without ever looking back. This was in 1974. By then a lot had changed in the Hawaiian arena of surfing. Boards were changing, people were changing, and for my father, most significant of all, the crowds were escalating. In his mind he felt he had done it all and had surfed his favorite breaks as he always wanted to remember them. Before Ricky Grigg passed away, he reminded me of what Buzzy told him…”You don’t need to ride another thirty foot wave Ricky. That wave has immortality in your brain.” The tribe of surfers in my father’s day were all Big Wave Riders. Every one of them. I grew up thinking that that was the apex of all surfing. But like anything that requires top physical shape to keep it up, as you get older, you eventually adjust to being less than, or leave it behind. My father chose to leave it all behind. Did that choice have consequences? Hell yes. Everything has consequences. Was it a wise choice? I’m not sure. I’ve often wondered what Buzzy Trent would have been like as an older surfer. Yes, the echoes of my father’s, Bud’s and their people’s time reverberate within my life on a daily basis. Seriously. Daily. Its deeply embedded within me because of my family ties, and of course, because of the history entrusted to me through the prolific body of work bequeathed to me by Bud Browne. How could it not? I carry the ghosts of surfing’s past. My husband often jokes (sometimes even laments) that our home is haunted. But I feel compelled to write about it and, like I’m doing here at the San Diego Surf Film Festival, share the films. I’m always honored and grateful to do so."
Having lived through what is widely considered to be one of Golden Eras of surfing and being a surfer yourself what do you see as pluses and minuses of contemporary surf culture? Are there aspects those earlier era life-ways that you think contemporary surfers have completely lost?
"Of course the “image” of surfing has changed over time. Money and media is certainly a factor. Huge factor. But that’s all that’s really changed- the image of surfing. If you strip is down, unplug it- the sponsorship, the money, the grabble for glory…in its truest essence, surfing is still the same. Personally, I don’t need an epic wave. I surf just about every evening at a little corner of beach that most self-respecting surfers wouldn’t look twice at. But, to me, it’s a piece of heaven. There’s a family of dolphins that frequent the place, but for the most part, I usually surf it alone. It’s not about the wave for me, although I am stoked when it gets good. It’s about the connection to something otherworldly. Surfing is feeling heaven. It’s about being touched by magic. I feel that every single time I ride a wave. That’s the part of surfing that hasn’t changed. Sometimes I worry though. About where surfing has gone. I wonder if there are surfers out there riding waves simply for the magic, and not for the ego of being “seen on scene?” Doing things without the perks and/or notoriety of “ambassadorship?” I'd like to believe that somewhere, some place, there are surfers chasing waves in removed places without instagraming, facebooking, or twitterizing. I’m hopeful. I suppose in Bud’s and my father’s day surfing was really about man and the sea. That’s it. I understand now that safety needs to be paramount. And truly, I was blown away by the performance at the Eddie this year. Still, I was amazed at the all the “stuff” nowadays. In my father’s day, there were no leashes, inflatable vests, jet skis, or lifeguards. Once you got yourself out in the line up, it was up to you to get yourself back in- period. You had to be a damn strong swimmer. I don’t think today’s surfers realize how the yellow brick road of surfing was paved."
I know from your writings and conversations how much Bud Browne meant to you? What is something you’d want everyone to know about him?
"This…that he walked the planet for nearly a hundred years, never ceasing to ponder the possibilities. The greatest life lessons I learned from Bud Browne was that it’s never too late to be brave, strong, and believe in possibilities. Surfing should be proud to call him one their own."
Another Year of all Things Ocean 2015
Although we separate them into parts, in truth, there is only one ocean.
-One Ocean, By Anna Trent Moore
Another stellar year of sharing the surf history love I tell you! Remembering the mission statement of BBFA, which is to preserve, protect, and perpetuate the historical archives for present and future generations to come, we are proud to say it was another great year of exactly that!
First off, for the second year in a row, we were off to the Big Island of Hawaii to the Waimea Ocean Film Festival where we were stoked to present not one, but two films this year! Cavalcade of Surf and Going Surfin’! Always a pleasure to be a part of this festival that shares the love while bringing awareness to our planet and all things ocean! We were pleased to include special guest at the Cavalcade showing, legendary North Shore surfer and fireman Bob Sheppard! Also, for the first time ever, we opened our Bud Browne Grab exhibit at the Fairmont Orchid at the festival! Composed of a comprehensive collection of Bud Browne’s iconic image work from the early 1950’s through the 1970’s, it is a unique body of work that represents Bud’s collection of frame grabs in a way that has never been shown before. A big mahalo to festival director Ms. Tania Howard for delivering yet another amazing lineup of inspiring films and lectures. As always, we left Waimea inspired to do more and determined to be a part of making a difference.
Following the Waimea Film Festival, it was back to California to the California Surf Museum in Oceanside for two days of fun, opening with the Grab exhibit at the museum, along with a lecture by Anna on all things Bud! The following night we showed Bud’s Surfing the Fifties with a stellar QandA panel composed of surf luminaries Linda Benson, LJ Richards, Peter Townend, and John Peck. A most extraordinary night! Mahalo to all the good people at CSM!
Then, back to Hawaii we went to close our summer! First order of business was to cheer on my brother Ivan Trent and his teammates Ed Naggiar from Panama City Florida, and Mike Sammis from Topanga Canyon, California, in Team Frog, paddling the Kaiwi Channel in the Moloka’i to Oahu race (M2O)! PROUD of their three man team who paddled to raise money and awareness for soldiers suffering from traumatic brain injury. Gentlemen, it was an honor to watch you bring it home for our fine soldiers, reminding us to never forget the great sacrifices that are made.
Then, we closed it all at the Honolulu Surf Film Festival at the Honolulu Museum of Art’s Doris Duke Theatre! Without a doubt, it was the festivals finest yet! It was a double delight for to show two films this year along with a lecture about Bud Browne and the BBFA. First film shown was, Wake unto Blue followed by the closing night main event of Locked In! And what a gathering it was I tell you! We were beyond stoked to close the festival for a sixth year in a row to a full house! Fantastic QandA panel with the incomparable Peter Cole, incredible Kimo Hollinger, Big Wave charger Jock Sutherland, and iconic bodysurfer Mark Cunningham! A beautiful evening filled with flowers, history, friends, and aloha! Well done and hats off to the most amazing director extraordinaire Ms. Abbie Algar, her assistant, the lovely Taylor, and the Honolulu Museum of Art! Bravo ladies!!!
Well now, time to catch our breath, reflect, and appreciate all that surfing brings to our lives. Mahalo nui loa to all who helped make everything possible! We look forward to the upcoming year’s events and new things ahead!
Anna Trent Moore
Laughing at Water
Anna Trent Moore’s latest book is out!
Anna is stoked to announce the release of her latest book, Laughing at Water. Greatly inspired by her love for the ocean and Hawaii, it is her first fiction book.
Laughing at Water is a story about searching for truth and purpose amidst the struggle of longing and regret. Mina Gregory is a woman that has suffered loss yet feels she is unable to cope because the trajectory of her life has drifted her far from the place that she loves the most, Hawaii. Within her inner struggles to find her way home is the complex relationship that she has with her mother, whom she discovers harbors a family secret. This story takes the reader on two seamlessly interwoven journeys. The first is one of discovery and redemption, and the second, a vividly descriptive pilgrimage around the beautiful island of Oahu.
Well, what an amazing summer it has been for the Bud Browne Film Archives! As a kick-start for summer we had a fabulous showing of Going Surfin' at Bird’s Surf Shed in San Diego in April. It was a sold out house in the most stellar space! Surfboards as far as the eye can see! Bird Huffman calls this surfing Cathedral a “Surfing Library” because the boards are not just meant to be looked at, but ridden as well. Surfers can check out boards on loan. (What a concept, yes?) Good of you Bird Huffman! You do a good thing!
Then it was off to France in July to show Surfin' the Fifties at the Anglet International Surf Film Festival. I was invited to be on the jury to select the prize-winning films. Such a spectacular selection of films viewed with a great crowd of fellow Jurors. It was an honor and privilege to participate and hats off to the premiere director Bruno Delaye and the city of Anglet! We met so many fine people and made new life friends. Mercie beaucoup mes amies!
After getting our feet back on the ground in California for a day, it was off to Hawaii nei to show Cavalcade of Surf at the Honolulu Museum of Art! The film night was also a Tribute to our dear departed friend Ricky Grigg who was not only dearly loved by our family, but also one of the most devoted patrons of the Museum. This was the first year that he was absent from our film night and panel but we took this opportunity to share amongst all present, the love and contributions he made to our sport and history. Singing his praises on this year’s panel was Peter Cole, Kimo Hollinger, Jock Sutherland, and Randy Rarrick. And thanks to Kyle Metcalf who recorded the entire event once again! You can check it out on youtube at http://youtu.be/JNp91XBk4bY. Thank you Gentlemen! And mahalo nui loa to our most amazing Film Festival Director Abbie Algar and Theatre Manager Taylour Chang! Wonderful job ladies! Spectacular night!
On a side note, Peter Mcguire printed an article on my brother Ivan Trent in the Surfer’s Journal June issue. Needless to say we are proud. And although he is my brother, I will be first to mention that he is so deserving. Well done Mr. Mcguire and thank you Mr. Steve Pezman for acknowledging one of America’s finest. And a BIG ALRIGHT! to Ivan and his teammates, Jeff Fink and Mike Sammis, for completing the M2O on standup paddle this year! So glad we were there to watch them bring it in!
Heads up on a couple upcoming writes! An Article on my father Buzzy Trent written by Keiko Yamamori in Japan’s Nalu Magazine’s September issue. Such a pleasure to speak to her in preparation for her write. She keeps surf history burning bright for the surfers in Japan. Thank you Keiko! And, a book coming out soon on the critical analysis of surfing’s films written by Professor John Engle, a professor at the Universite du Sud Toulon-Var. in Marseille, France. I enjoyed the visit with him….especially the chocolates!
Oh too! Thank you to the fine people at The Inertia online for printing four of our articles! You make us proud- not to mention Stoked to read all you publish!
Okay everyone, here’s to a great fall and more waves please.
Aloha nui loa!
Anna Trent Moore
Written by Anna Trent Moore
"I live in two very separate worlds and I see the beauty and the failing of both. In science, people get to the core of what it is all about; and that is understanding how the Universe works and how life evolved, and of course, our place, as tiny bits of passing compilations of protoplasmic sparkle. But scientists are too self absorbed to be adrift at sea, to lose themselves in the vast wonder of 30 foot mountains rounding Kaena Point like an army under the command of Lawrence of Arabia screaming out his charge to take no prisoners. But surfers don't seem to take their passion back to libraries of knowledge and try to decipher what it is, to truly understand. Einstein said, "Our quest to understand is eternal". So that is why I stay at the edge of both surfing and science societies. Only then, can you be free to jump off the mountain, to soar with the wind, and take it back to physics, poetry, and love."
-Ricky Grigg, 2010
May 21, 2014 surfing lost its sport’s renaissance man Richard Grigg. And, he will be sorely missed.
Although known in the world of Oceanography as Dr. Richard Grigg, he was affectionately called Ricky Grigg by the surfing world. Not only recognized and respected as one of the world’s leading experts on Coral Studies, he was also one of our sports greatest Big Wave Riders. Part of the early Santa Monica crew composed of a tight group of friends like Peter Cole, Buzzy Trent, and Joe Quigg, who traversed the Pacific in search of riding big surf, Ricky not only made Hawaii his home, but he grew to love the Hawaiian Islands deeply; so much so that his life quest became about searching for a deeper understanding of their formation and coming into being. It might even be said that he abandoned his California roots to become Hawaiian. He told me that, “It is easy to love these beautiful islands. But, when one has a deeper understanding of how they were formed, this is when you love them even more.” And perhaps no one was more driven to understanding the Islands more than Ricky Grigg. The culmination of which were recorded in his last two books, Big Surf, Deep Dives (1998) and The Islands and Archipelago, The Origin and Discovery of The Hawaiian Islands (2012).
But every life begins somewhere for everyone, and for Richard Grigg it began on April 12, 1937 when he was born in Los Angeles, California. At the age of six, his grandfather brought his mother, sister Robin, and little Ricky an old mansion that was once owned by the silent film actress Mary Pickford. Two blocks from Santa Monica Pier, on the boardwalk next to Muscle Beach, the Pacific Ocean was his playground and Buzzy Trent’s lifeguard tower rested in front of it. As could happen only in Hollywood, the scene was set. Certainly, circumstance and environment affects the trajectory of one’s life, but in Ricky Griggs’s case, the timing for take off was curiously poised.
I started listening to his stories when I was about nine years old and, of course, kept on listening for about 50 more years. In many ways my dreams were copies of his dreams. At least part of me was always following him. I would say that Buzzy Trent, my mother and two professors (in college) were the most influential people in my life. But my "go for it" instincts were all reinforced, almost molded by Buzzy. He was definitely the hero in my life and still is in so many ways."
He has always wanted to be an oceanographer. From the moment to catching the wind in a pillow case and rushing into the ocean to ride it, to being pushed into his first wave by Buzzy Trent at the age of nine years old on a Simmons board with a nose, “that was so concaved that you could eat a salad on it,” he has always been in love with the sea. Motivated, inspired, and a sense of duty always propelled him into the direction of serious study. Living within two worlds that didn’t characteristically cohabitate well together, he determined his life to become the surfer who also became the professor. To others, to do so, might impose sacrifice or compromise, but for Ricky, he forged his path methodically with clear focus and crystal determination.
After graduating from Stanford University in 1958 he felt a brief sense of freedom to permit him a short hiatus. At last, he traveled to Hawaii to devote himself to surfing big waves. Loving the islands, but longing to see more, he took a job as a shipmate on the Maunawanui, earning his keep while sailing to Tahiti. Returning to Hawaii to attend the University of Hawaii, he earned his Master’s degree in Oceanography. Pursuing higher study, in 1964 he studied at Scripps Institution of Oceanography where he received his PhD in Coral Studies. And yet, while focusing on school, he continued to hone his skills as a big wave rider, winning the second Duke Kahanamoku International Invitational Contest in 1967. Although he was tied to the contrary worlds of surfing and science, he was determined to have them both, and in doing so, create a more unified life. So, in 1970 he joined the faculty of the University of Hawaii in the Department of Oceanography as a full time professor.
"In my other world of science, people are not threatened by disagreement, in fact, that is what we thrive on; sharing, comparing, disagreeing, or agreeing, it doesn't matter because the subject of the discussion is not about people. Most surfers only seem to be concerned about people and their place in the hierarchy; all that doesn't matter much to me unless I love someone. Most people plateau in middle age and then slide quietly sideways. But we must continue to evolve in searching for a higher meaning. In doing so, it can sustain us for the good; but it may also question the status quo. The cost for inner reflection, lust for life is the proof of one’s own quit worth."
Toward the end when we spoke, always the great analyzer, he often reflected on the journey and his gratitude for the life he’d lived. He said he was, “Satisfied. Completely happy.” And I had to agree with him, even reminding him that he had lived a life most people only dream of. In fact, it was charmed really. Ricky Grigg lived the most charmed life of any man I have ever known.
And now, Ricky Grigg no longer walks the planet among us. He belongs to surfing’s ages. But if we believe that our immortality rest in what we leave behind in others, then Ricky Grigg is going to be around for a very long time, a testimony that if one lives the life one dreams of, the journey will always be well worth it.
"Buzzy told me to be grateful. He said, " You don't have to ride another 30 foot wave Ricky. That wave has immortality in your brain.” So given no limits except our own finiteness, we must reach for the stars and dance with them; to know them too, so we can know ourselves as independent spirits, free to discover the heavens right here on earth."
-Ricky Grigg, 2010
Copyright © 2014 Anna Trent Moore
We at the Bud Browne Film Archives would like to wish all of you a Happy 2014! We hope the holiday season was stellar for all of you. We are stoked to welcome in the New Year and hopefully look forward to a great year of surf.
We recently returned from Waimea, Hawaii where we presented at the Waimea Ocean Film Festival on the Big Island of Hawaii. And my oh my...what a stellar event it was! Kudos to Tania Howard for the amazing job! Over fifty films celebrating all things ocean. Outstanding filmmakers from all walks of the planet presenting films, talks, photos and board exhibits. You name it, if it was connected to our love and concern for the ocean, it was THERE! It was difficult to name our favorites because it was so diverse, but...must say we truly enjoyed viewing Gary W. Young's fine collection of sustainable Natural Fiber Composite Surfboards! Not only ecologically sane but incredible beautiful works of art! We cannot wait to order one! Also, the images of Tim McCullough just blew us away. What a very fine collection it was! A treasure trove really. I saw images of my father Buzzy Trent that I've never seen before. His slide show was up close and personal and took you there. And then, the amazing lecture of M. Sanjayan, leading ecologist who forced us all to ponder and examine our role in nature and improving the well being of earth and her people. I walked away thinking...I need to do more! There’s was so much! But I must say, we were proud to present Bud Browne's historical film Surfing The Fifties and so honored how it was so warmly received and appreciated. I did a breakfast talk at the Anna Ranch Heritage Center in Waimea and when I walked up to the place that I was to give my sharing’s of Bud Browne's Archive, I was blown away. It was to be given in a the famed rancher’s little white house on the historical ranch. It looked like Bud's little house that he lived in at Costa Mesa, and above the door was a sign that read...Anna House. Needless to say, I pulled it together once I got inside.
Well, there is so much more to report on this stellar event, but time is out. We look forward to returning next year. Our thanks to Tania Howard the preeminent director extraordinaire and all the good people at the festival. Aloha nui loa!
-Anna Trent Moore-
And what a summer 2013 was. Three weeks finding Bud's Tahiti was magical. I could see why he found it inspiring enough to return to it time and time again throughout his lifetime. Still, I do think the essence of Bud's Tahiti from his films and images were discovered in the lovely island at Huahine. I found myself all the more inspired to one day return to show Bud's film You'll Dance in Tahiti, his love letter to the place he loved so. Following our Tahiti trip, what a wonderful gathering at the Doris Duke Theatre in Honolulu, Hawaii, we experienced once again this summer. A great turn out of friends and people gathered to see Bud's Gun Ho! A warm Mahalo to the Honolulu Academy of Arts and Abbie Algar for having us a fourth year in a row! Fantastic job Abbie! As we anticipate fall, we reflect on this past summer, and look forward to the next one to come.
Bud Browne Archives Presents Epic Gun Ho!
Bud Browne Film Archives is pleased to present Bud Browne’s epic surf film classic, Gun Ho. Shown for the first time in Hawaii in over forty years, Gun Ho gives us a rare glimpse of the iconic surfers of the sixties, such as Paul Strauch, Phil Edwards, John Peck, Ricky Grigg, Jose Angel, Mickey Dora, Greg Noll, Peter Cole, Buzzy Trent, George Downing, and others. Filmed by the father of the surf film and creator of the genre, Bud Browne, it is a film that captures Hawaiian surfing at a unique time in the sport’s history. A film of relevance, intrigue, and documentation, it is a tribute to the icons of surfing and it’s culture.
Bud Browne with Levi's
We are proud to be a part of Levi's Bud Browne's graphic t-shirt line. A select few of Bud's vintage posters are available on t-shirts online at Levi's and in stores. As the innovator and creator of the surf film genre, we feel that Bud is in right good company with Levi Strauss! Go see!
We are happy to announce the release of Anna's new book, One Ocean and Other Short Stories. One Ocean is a collection of short stories transpired from something we are all inherently connected to, the ocean. These stories resonate with a heartfelt familiarity pondering our connectivity and the possibility that perhaps, because we share the same water that circles our planet, our stories are more shared than we realize. Anna will be at the Surfing Heritage Vintage Surf Auction on May 11, 2013 signing books!
Donald Takayama (1944-2012)
It is with sad heart that we say goodbye to one of surfing's finest, Donald Takayama. Always in our hearts forevermore. Long live Donald!